Page 183 - CW E-Magazine (30-4-2024)

PCHi CHINA 2024 PCHi CHINA 2024

INNOVATIVE INGREDIENTS Shanghai. For one, the China beauty mar- of Clariant, launched ‘Corneopeptyl’ a barrier function, demonstrating a reduc-
ket possesses tremendous potential – in peptide biomimetic to the recently disco- tion of skin permeability and water loss.
Givaudan launches skin brightening prebiotic; Lucas particular for this type of claim and is one vered LCE6A protein, known to have an Rebuilding the skin barrier consequently
of great importance to our company. But essential role in the mechanical resistance future-proofs the skin by reducing the
Meyer’s unveils novel peptide more importantly, our Consumer Market- of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. appearance of aging signs like wrinkles,
ing Insights (CMI) team ran consumer decreasing skin roughness, and increasing
Givaudan’s Active Beauty business studies and confi rmed this ingredient’s The LCE6A protein was discovered skin tonicity and hydration.
unveiled Illuminyl 388, a biotech- high level of relevance for this region.” by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, in collabora-
enhanced skin brightening prebiotic tion with Infi nity Institute in France. By Corneopeptyl is obtained by an opti-
designed through cell-free glycosylation. Peptide biomimetic to LCE6A mimicking the LCE6A protein activity, mised synthesis process following green
It seeks to address the challenges of skin protein Corneopeptyl strengthens the corneocyte chemistry principles, and the company
pigmentation for all skin types. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, France- envelope, resulting in a more resilient has conducted extensive clinical studies
based ingredients maker and now part epidermal barrier with improved skin to prove its benefi ts.
Crafted through a biocatalysis process
from EGCG1, green tea’s most iconic GREEN & SUSTAINABLE
antioxidant, this brightening molecule
delivers a holistic luminous effect. The Croda puts focus on biofermentation-derived actives
active has been designed to simultane-
ously target multiple skin pigmentation Biofermentation-derived actives
pathways and is reinforced by additional were among the key highlights of UK-
prebiotic activity to meet the needs of based speciality ingredients supplier,
diverse skin types from Africa, Asia, India, Croda’s participation at PCHi.
and Europe.
Dr. Alba Cico, Group Manager of
Givaudan said Illuminyl 388’s sugar Sederma, the France-based subsidiary
moiety enables its absorption via cellular of Croda, and who leads the research
glucose receptors, while conferring on team at Sederma’s in-vitro department,
the molecule a prebiotic activity which gave details about the novel biotech
stimulates the in-situ release of a niacin- ingredients developed by the company
derivative by the skin microfl ora. in recent times.

“Clinical studies conducted on four “These ingredients act on different
different skin types underline the uni- layers of the skin – from the hypoder-
versal effi cacy of this skin illuminating mis with lipofi lling effect of Kombu-
active. We are not only targeting all the chka PH (Kombucha-fermented black
major pigmentation pathways, but we tea), going up with Venuceane that has
also trigger the skin microbiota to pro- an impact in increasing collagen and
duce whitening postbiotics. Whether it’s protecting skin from infrared radiation, is produced via a highly sustainable metabolisms and strengthens the skin’s
improving skin radiance and luminosity, and then hydration with Optim Hyal manufacturing process with complete holobiont. It slows down the aging pro-
that is similar to a molecule that mimics waste recovery. cess by fi ve years after just one month
hyaluronic acid,” she said. of application, reducing signs of cuta-
Luceane is inspired by the ‘Qi’ con- neous fatigue and improving skin radi-
She informed that the latest launch cept of traditional Chinese medicine ance, Dr. Cico said.
is of Luceane, a bacteria extracted from concerning the circulation of the skin’s
a coral in the Bahamas. vital energy, as well as new contempo- Speaking about Chinese market
promoting even skin tone, or reducing Commenting on the launch at PCHi, rary oxygen therapy practices in beauty trends, she noted the movement towards
pigmentation spots, Illuminyl 388 out- Ms. Shan Godbille, Head of Strategic Luceane is a bioactive saccharide salons. Luceane counteracts hypoxia by anti-aging in general and ‘well-aging’
performs traditional benchmarks such and Operational Marketing at Givaudan extract obtained by biofermentation of stimulating and protecting cellular res- in particular. “Well aging is about
as vitamin C,” said Mr. Daniel Auriol, Active Beauty, shared, “It was a com- a Pseudoalteromonas strain. According piration and energy production. It also accepting that we will age and to make
Scientifi c Director Biotechnology, Active bination of factors that led us to unveil to Dr. Cico, it is easily biodegradable, induces the elimination of micropollut- it good, without focusing on completely
Beauty. the bio-based illuminating active here in with full degradation after 28 days. It ants within cells, invigorates cellular stopping it,” Dr. Cico added.

182 Chemical Weekly April 30, 2024 Chemical Weekly April 30, 2024 183

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