Page 178 - CW E-Magazine (30-4-2024)

PCHi CHINA 2024 PCHi CHINA 2024

“This new emulsifi er is specially greasiness and there are also signifi cant types and climates. It can emulsify oil products, which wouldn’t have been the Manufacturing footprint always used green chemistry, mostly
designed for the most fragile and sensitive amounts of plant-based sterols known phases up to 40% and create thin sprays case around 10 years ago. “There is a lot Speaking about the company’s based around esterifi cation,” she said.
skins. It is a biomimetic composition for their anti-infl ammatory effi cacy,” to thick butters suitable for skin care, of R&D efforts being put in by Chinese manufacturing footprint, Dr. Lennon “We are experts in two complementary
where plant-based lipids are reconstruc- she explained. suncare, makeup, and hair/scalp care. cosmetic companies now,” she said. said in Asia, Gattefossé operates a fi elds: lipids and plant chemistry. This
ted as a composition that is perfectly In the form of pellets, it is very easy to facility in Singapore. “Special ingre- know-how enables us to meet the
compatible with the surface of the skin,” Emulium Dermolea MB forms a formulate and forms stable emulsions. India prospects dients like our actives are still manu- latest market trends in both natural
informed Dr. Paula Lennon, Group light, skin-compatible fi lm, proven to It is readily biodegradable, COSMOS Quizzed on the company’s prospects factured in France. These actives are actives and functional ingredients,”
Director Personal Care, Gattefossé. reduce environmental skin stress. “The approved, and vegan compliant. in India, Dr. Lennon said, “India is an high-value, low-volume and artisanal she added.
fi lms that are formed are very light fi lms exciting market for us because it is in a products. That’s why we have no plans
She pointed out that the core com- because we wanted it to be suitable “Gattefossé launched the ingredient period of transformation. The regulations at this stage to manufacture them else- As a cosmetic and ingredient sup-
position of the new ingredient is long- for use even in humid climates,” said in China at PCHi. China is a very have changed and are changing, with where. In the case of our oleochemi- plier, Gattefossé has an obligation to
chain alkanes and long-chain wax Dr. Lennon. important market for us. It’s a market of much more information being required cal products, we have three sites in have a positive environmental impact,
esters, and these are almost identical to experts; Chinese consumers are sensory on clinical effi cacy, proof of concepts, France, US and Singapore. This year, she said. “We think about the environ-
the composition on the skin’s surface. This multi-functional ingredient can experts with very high expectations. So, etc. That’s very exciting for us because we are also launching a new factory in mental impact from the very beginning
“We choose longer chains than those be used to develop a wide range of cos- we strive to make our functional ingre- all our ingredients are in-vivo tested with the US, which is Gattefossé’s biggest of the product lifecycle – in choosing
found in sebum, so we don’t have any metic applications suitable for all skin dients as sensory as possible,” said full clinical information. We are seeing a investment yet,” she revealed. The US the chemistry, the raw materials, the
Dr. Lennon. Incidentally, Emulium Der- lot of interest in our fully substantiated factory will serve the company’s pharma- energy required for manufacturing,
molea MB bagged the ‘PCHi Fountain actives in India,” she informed. ceutical and cosmetic ingredients the packaging, and transport. Our
Award’ in the ‘Emulsifying/Stabilising’ business. “It will be dedicated to the customers are very strongly engaged
category. “India is also for us one of the big- texture ingredients, rather than the in sustainability and climate pro-
gest pharma markets. The products of actives,” said Dr. Lennon. tection. We are engaged alongside
Chinese market dynamics the pharmaceutical companies in India them. We provide our customers with
Speaking about the characteristics of have some of the highest standards in the Green chemistry traceability on all our ingredients. At
the Chinese cosmetics market, Dr. Lennon world, and we see that being applied to Dr. Lennon emphasised Gatte- Gattefossé, we follow the principle
noted that Chinese customers are very the cosmetics industry. We expect to see fossé’s focus on naturals-based chemi- that either our new ingredient will have
particular about the molecular compo- the level of quality of Indian cosmetics stry in developing new ingredients. a signifi cant performance advantage, or
sition of raw materials. “Compared to sector approaching the pharma industry “We use our chemistry to build better improved sustainability advantage,” she
many other countries, the consumers in levels in the coming years,” she said. ingredients. At Gattefossé, we have remarked.
China are keen to understand how any
performance comes about,” she said, BARRIER-STRENGTHENING ACTIVE
adding that other trends like sustainabi-
lity, hydration and moisturisation are Provital’s new active harnesses power of animal
like the ones seen globally.
and plant kingdoms, together with their microbiomes
“The Chinese cosmetics sector regu-
lations have become quite stringent; Provital, the Spain-based developer Endophytes are symbiotic microorgani- cus suber), Shiloxome takes the protec-
registering a new chemistry is an uphill of natural active ingredients and botani- sms with remarkable abilities to synthe- tive power of its symbiotic provenance
battle. For us to be able to launch an cal extracts for the cosmetic industry, sise bioactive phytochemicals. to provide the skin with the capacity to
ingredient that is unknown in the Chinese launched a skin protection ingredient, adapt, survive, and protect itself,” she
market, it is easier if one of our custo- Shiloxome, touted to be an “ecosystem Ms. Nina Yang, General Manager, informed.
mers in China accompanies us in bringing ingredient” made by the use of “inter- Pivotal Trading (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. said
it into the market. Chinese regulations kingdom symbiosis”. Shiloxome seeks to combine the sym- Speaking about the lipid-enhancing
also require a great deal of justifi cation biosis of three kingdoms – plant, animal mechanisms displayed by the active,
on safety and a lot of information on The ingredient is the fi rst to be deve- and microbiota. “We isolate the micro- she said Shiloxome works to replenish
the product even if it’s an existing one,” loped using the company’s Triplobiome biome from the plant and study the secon- the lipid barrier, bolster moisture reten-
observed Dr. Lennon. biotechnology platform that integrates dary metabolites benefi cial to human tion, and enhance the skin’s elasticity
the power of animal and plant king- beings. Shiloxome, represents the fi rst and suppleness thanks to reducing the
China has established its domestic doms, together with their microbiome. “ecosystem ingredient” ever developed. pollution-induced lipid peroxidation
cosmetic market in the last few years, This new biotech platform uses plant Derived from isolating the endophytic that prevents the necessary lipid chain
she said and noted that Chinese cosmetic endophytes as a sustainable source to yeast Kwoniella mangroviensis from the elongation. It helps restore the shield-
Dr. Paula Lennon companies now offer very high-quality produce new natural active ingredients. protective bark of the cork oak (Quer- ing function of the lipid barrier, improv-

178 Chemical Weekly April 30, 2024 Chemical Weekly April 30, 2024 179

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