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Special Report                                                                                                                                                                   Special Report



       Carbon footprints of Lenzing’s viscose, modal                                                                            PP/PET               Viscose/Modal/Lyocell               in Figure 3.  The grey columns show
                                                                                                                                                                                         the fossil carbon  emissions related to
       and lyocell fi bres                                                                                                                                                                the production processes for each fi bre
                                                                                                                                                                                         type. The results show a GWP of 4.1
             ellulose is a key structural com-                               of Lenzing’s man-made  cellulose                                                                            and 2.8 t CO  eq./t fi bre for PET and
                                                                                                                                                                                                    2
             ponent of cell  walls of plants                                 staple  fi bres  viscose,  modal  and                                                                        PP  fi bres  respectively.  The  results  for
       Cand trees, and therefore a wood-                                     lyocell,  produced in Europe and                                                                            the wood-based process emissions are
       based and in a wider sense bio-based                                  Asia.                                              Crude Oil                        Wood                    lower  than  for  the  PET  and  PP  fi bres
       material. Cellulose fi bres are used for                               Identify the environmental  advan-                                                                         with 2.5 t CO  eq. per t fi bre for “Lenzing
                                                                                                                                                                                                   2
       a wide range within textile, nonwoven                                 tages and  disadvantages of  man-                                                                           Tencel  Austria”, 1.2 t CO   eq. per t
                                                                                                                                                                                                               2
       and other industrial applications, rang-                              made  cellulose  fi bres  compared  to                                                                       fi bre for “Lenzing Viscose Austria” and
       ing from home textiles over apparel tex-                              cotton, bio-based polylactic acid              Polymer Production               Pulp Production             1.5 t CO  eq. per t fi bre for “Lenzing
                                                                                                                                                                                                2
       tiles to technical textiles with very high                            (PLA) fi bres and fossil-based poly-                                                                         Modal”.  This shows that  the GWP
       property  demands like  tyre cord. The                                ethylene terephthalate (PET) and                                                                            process emissions for the  production
       Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study exa-                                polypropylene (PP) fi bres. For fi bre                                                                        of wood-based fi bres is lower than the
       mined the three types  of  wood-based                                 comparison, fibres with similar                  Fibre Production              Fibre Production             process emissions for the  production
       cellulose staple fi bres that the company                              properties  to  the  cellulose  fi bres                                                                      of  fossil-based  fi bres  when  both  fi bre
       Lenzing, a world leading and globally                                 were chosen.                                                                                                types (wood and fossil-based) are pro-
       active company with headquarters in                                                                                                                                               duced in Europe.
       Austria, can produce – viscose, modal                                 In the goal and scope phase the fol-
       and lyocell fi bres.                                                lowing aspects were defi ned:                                                                                      The green columns represent  the
                                              Fig. 1: Cellulose staple fi bres     Functional unit: 1 t staple fi bre.                                                                    biogenic carbon  embedded in the
          Lenzing  produces  the  three  fi bre   Lenzing, Photographer: Markus Renner     System boundaries: cradle-to-factory   PP/PET                 Viscose/Modal/Lyocell           wood-based  products, which can be
       types – viscose, modal and lyocell –  K. Patel from the Copernicus Institute of   gate.                                 Staple Fibres                  Staple Fibres              considered as  negative GWP.  This
       which are sold under the brand names  Utrecht University  conducted a  Life      Impact categories: Global Warming   100% Fossil-based             100% Wood-based               is plausible, as during the feedstock
       of TENCEL™ (lyocell and modal) and  Cycle Assessment (LCA) of man-made   Potential 100 (GWP100a), cumula-                                                                         growth (wood) carbon was removed
       LENZING™ ECOVERO™ (viscose)  cellulose  fi bres  viscose,  modal  and   tive energy demand, non-renewable                                                                          from the atmosphere and embedded in
       in textiles, respectively,  and  VEO-  lyocell from Lenzing. In the study the   energy use (among others).      Fig. 2: Schematic overview of fi bre production for PP/PET and Viscose/Tencel/Modal fi bres  wood, then called “embedded biogenic
       CEL™ (lyocell, viscose) in nonwovens  fi bres were named as follows: Viscose      Impact  assessment  method:  CML                                 plifi ed process scheme of the fossil-  carbon”. During the End-of-Life, which
       business. The fi bres differ in terms of  fibre as “Lenzing Viscose”, modal   2000 baseline method.               Lenzing provided the production   and  woodbased production  path-  is not considered here, the embedded
       their technical as well as haptical and  fi bre  as  “Lenzing  Modal”  and  lyocell                            data from 2010 for the fi bres viscose,   ways is shown in Fig. 2.)  biogenic  carbon in the wood-based

       optical properties due to their different  fi bre  as  “Tencel”.  Nowadays,  Tencel   The system boundaries start at the   modal and lyocell (“Tencel”) for the   Data  only from European  produc-  product,  but also the  embedded fossil
       production processes.             is the trademark for lyocell and modal   extraction  of raw materials  from the   European production site, as well as some   tion sites.       carbon in the fossil-based product, is

                                         fi bres and the nomenclature used in the   environment (cradle). At that time, Lenz-  data from an Asian production site. For   Data from the year 2010.  released into the atmosphere and both

          The viscose fi bre is produced in a  study is not anymore in line with cur-  ing used wood only from FSC certifi ed   the comparison of Lenzing’s cellulose   GWP comparison of the fi bres.  contribute to the GWP in a cradle-to-
       conventional  viscose process. Gene-  rent branding. However, here the nam-  wood suppliers. Nowadays, Lenzing   fi bres with reference fi bres like cotton,                        grave scenario.
       rally, viscose production  is energy-  ing from the peer-reviewed LCA study   operates also other pulp mills and uses   PLA, PET and PP fi bres, also for those   Nowadays,  Lenzing operates three
       intensive and requires large quantities  is used for the results of the study so   PEFC certifi ed wood, too. Additionally,   fi bres  cradle-to-factory  gate  data  was  additional lyocell production sites.   The cellulose fi bres contain around
       of chemicals such as caustic soda and  the reader is able to compare the results   Lenzing only uses wood with a quality   collected.  The fossil-based PET and  Therefore, the results shown  are not  1.4 to 1.5 t CO  eq. embedded biogenic
                                                                                                                                                                                                     2
       sulphuric acid. The modal fi bre is pro-  of this summary with the original LCA   which is unable to be used in furniture   PP fi bres were modelled using datasets  representative anymore, but shall show  carbon per t fi bre. If embedded biogenic
       duced  in  a  modifi ed  viscose  process,  study.                  so the wood for the fi bres does not com-   from PlasticsEurope representing aver-  that  already in 2010, companies like  carbon is considered as negative GWP
       resulting in higher wet modulus fi bres.                            pete with the need of wood for other       age  Western European production in  Lenzing provided a material with envi-  in a cradle-to-gate  scenario,  it posi-
       The lyocell fi bre is produced with the   The LCA study was reviewed by   high valued products.                the year 2000. The production data for  ronmental benefi ts.         tively infl uences the overall sum (net)
       lyocell  process, which uses less sol-  three external and independent experts.                               PLA  and  cotton  fi bres  were  obtained                            of emissions, which is visualised with
       vents and was  commercialised  in the  The  reviewers  verifi ed  that  the  LCA   In the next process step at Lenzing’s   from literature sources.  Climate change impact results – cradle-  the depicted orange dots (see Fig. 3).
       early 1990s. Nowadays, all three types  was conducted accordingly to the stan-  production site in Europe, the wood is                          to-factory gate boundary          Then the net GWP emissions are even
       of  fi bres  are  produced  simultaneously  dards of LCA (ISO 14040/14044).   processed to  cellulose  pulp.  Finally,   For this summary, the  following   The cradle-to-factory GWP  results  lower for the wood-based products, for
       in large quantities.                                               the cellulose pulp is transformed into     data is selected:                 in t CO   equivalent (eq.) per t staple  European data.
                                                                                                                                                              2
                                           The goals of  the peer-reviewed   cellulosic fi bres in Lenzing’s viscose,      Comparative  analysis  between  fi bre  for  PET,  PP,  “Lenzing  Tencel
       LCA of cellulose fi bres           LCA study were                   modal and lyocell processes (factory          fossil-based PET/PP and Lenzing’s  Austria”, “Lenzing Modal” and “Lenzing  CONCLUSION
          In 2010,  Li  Shen and  Martin   Identify the environmental impacts   gate).                                 man-made cellulose fi bres. (A sim-  Viscose  Austria”  fi bres  are  visualised   The LCA results show that  the

       168                                                                  Chemical Weekly  February 20, 2024       Chemical Weekly  February 20, 2024                                                              169


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