Page 187 - CW E-Magazine (28-5-2024)
P. 187

Special Report



       GIGA Fine Chemical highlights skin care active

       from red grape algae

          The focus  at  Taiwan-based GIGA                                trans-epidermal  water  loss  (TEWL)
       Fine  Chemical, a  company dedicated                               significantly  and  enhance  skin  barrier
       to  providing naturally  derived  specialty                        function; and significantly soothe skin
       ingredients, was  Ziga  Marine C/MP,                               redness and provide relief from inflam-
       extracted from  the red  grape algae,                              mation and irritation.
       Botryocladia leptopoda, also known as
       Marine Ruby.                                                          In recent years, GIGA Fine Chemi-
                                         been shown to soothe skin irritation,  cal has established close collaborations
          Taiwan boasts a unique geographi-  especially reducing facial redness in   with academic institutions  in  Taiwan
       cal location that facilitates the cultiva-  individuals with sensitive skin. In clinical   to develop a variety of proprietary
       tion of exceptionally pure red grape  tests, 2%  ZigaMarine C/MP serum  functional materials for applications for
       algae  due to the nutrient-rich  waters  has  been  demonstrated  to  significantly   skincare, and the company also show-
       brought by the Kuroshio  current. The  increase  skin  hydration levels  to   cased a range of natural fermentation
       COSMOS-approved ingredient has  improve moisture retention;  decrease  derived ingredients at the show.

       Gattefosse unveils new oil-soluble bioactive for eyecare
          Gattefosse launched a new lipophilic
       active ingredient,  Eyeglorius – an
       organic and versatile solution, capable
       of treating all  signs of fatigue, while
       opening up myriad possibilities  for
       skincare and makeup formulations.

          “In response to the trend towards
       skinification  in  makeup,  Gattefosse
       sought to provide cosmetic brands with
       a comprehensive solution.  We lever-
       aged our  multiple expertise to  create
       Eyeglorius, a distinctive  lipophilic   address this complexity.  Triterpenoid  are manually cut for the harvest of the
       active which is the perfect match bet-  acids  (mainly  ursolic,  maslinic,  and  sea buckthorn’s berries, which are trans-
       ween the expectations  of formulators  oleanolic acids) have recognised effects  formed into juices,  sorbets, and jams.
       and consumers,” says Laurie Canel,  on skin microcirculation  by reducing   Gattefosse recovers the unused leaves,
       Product Marketing Leader for Personal  inflammation-induced vascular permea-  upcycling this valuable material. Follow-
       Care Actives at Gattefosse.       bility and reinforcing the endothelial  ing extraction, the vegetable matter is
                                         barrier function. Interestingly, they also  solubilised in a bio-based oily com-
          Despite similar locations, dark cir-  present potential in the degradation of  pound, which ensures lipophilicity as
       cles and eye bags cannot be attributed to  the red pigment of dark circles.  well as stability and optimal formulation.
       one single driver, making it difficult to
       address from a cosmetic point of view.   Gattefosse  took  an  interest  in  the   Two  double-blind clinical  studies
       Dysfunctional microcirculation, exces-  leaves of sea buckthorn, reputed for  confirm Eyeglorius efficiency in reduc-
       sive vascular  permeability, oxidation,  their  remarkable phytochemical richness,  ing signs of fatigue.
       and  inflammation  are  all  responsible  especially in triterpenic compounds.
       for the appearance of signs of fatigue.  A supply chain built with a Canadian family-   The ingredient  is 100% of natural
                                         owned orchard  ensures the traceability   origin, according to the norm 15016128,
          Gallefosse’s research team captured  and high organic quality of the raw   organic  certified,  RSPO  mass  balance
       molecules from the plant kingdom to  material. Every September, the branches  certified and China NMPA notified.

       Chemical Weekly  May 28, 2024                                                                   187


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